This is a monthly round up of my unfinished knitting (and occasionally crochet) projects.
First up the finished projects - two baby jumpers.
Flax Light designed by Tin Can Knits (free here) in 4ply sock yarn (blocked)
Flax Light is knitting pattern for a jumper and is part of Tin Can Knits Simple Collection - a collection of free learn to knit patterns.
It is knitted seamlessly from the top down. A baby jumper is a great introduction to this technique and Tin Can Knits have provided lots of help to guide you.
As a new shop sample, this Flax Light baby jumper shows off Opal mini balls of 4ply sock yarn.
These mini balls are just 10g in size. I used 5 balls to knit the 0-6 month size but you really need 6 (I mistakenly knitted the rib around the body and my sleeves a wee bit shorter and only had a tiny bit of yarn left).
Flax Light designed by Tin Can Knits (free here) in 4ply sock yarn (unblocked)
For this 0-6 months size, this is how I blended the colours (always ending a ball at the beginning of the round):
I worked about 2" of the first ball (A) before striping in the second ball (B) with 2 row stripes.
When A runs out carry on with B. When you stop increasing at the raglan start striping B with the third ball (C), again 2 row stripes.
When you separate the body and sleeves cut B (set aside for sleeves) and continue with C only.
Knit about 1" with C only.
After that start striping C with the fourth ball (D), 2 row stripes of each.
Continue with C and D stripes for 2".
Cut C (set aside for sleeves).
Continue with D and add in the fifth ball (E) working 2 row stripes of each.
When you get to 4 inches cut D (set aside for sleeves) and continue with E striping in the sixth ball (F).
When you get to 5" (from the underarm) you then start the rib. I did not stripe this. Remember I didn't use a sixth ball but would have needed it if I hadn't knitted parts too short. So I should have striped in F.
I halved each of the small amounts set aside for the sleeves so that the sleeves would look similar. This was all guessed as my kitchen scales are not sensitive enough. I then striped these together in the same order as the body. I just used what I had as the balls were not equal!
Obviously you don't need to use mini balls to get this variegated look. Keep all your leftover 4py sock yarn and put together your own colour palette, perhaps adding some variety with a mini ball or two.
I also want to share a tip I saw on Instagram from Lily Kate Makes. When changing from stocking stitch to rib (usually knitted with a smaller needle) switch to the smaller needle on the row/round before the rib. This makes a much neater transition. I forgot to do this on the hem of the Flax Light but remembered for the sleeves and it did make a big difference for me. Obviously if you're knitting from the bottom up you would do the first row/round after the rib with the smaller needle.
Just remember to switch to the correct stocking stitch needle!
The second baby jumper is French Macaroon in West Yorkshire Spinners Bo Peep DK (shade 1072). Another shop sample.
French Macaroon by The Noble Thread, available for free on Ravelry
For this jumper you knit two T shapes then join the shoulders with a three needle bind off and sew up the side seams with mattress stitch.
As it's all done in a simple knit with no increasing or decreasing it's a good first baby jumper. However, you do have to read the instructions closely as you change direction a few times and can lose track of your rows.
It's a good idea to pop a safety pin onto the right side of your knitting as garter stitch looks the same on both sides.
A three needle bind off is a simple technique where you knit the front and back together at the same time as casting off. This is a good tutorial on YouTube
To do a three needle bind off (or cast off) you need to leave your stitches 'live'. So I had stitches from the back and front T shapes still on needles. I use interchangeable circular needles. These are knitting needles where you can add needle tips to a cable (or wire). This allows you to make different lengths of circular needles to suit your project.
When you don't attach needle tips to the cables you can add a little stopper that stops the stitches falling off and turns the cable into a stitch holder. When I came to casting off the front and back pieces I added needle tips to the appropriate end and used a third to knit and cast off.
three needle bind off - right sides facing each other
completed three needle bind-off with the right side facing out.
Next you sew up the sides and under arms.
Mattress stitch gives an almost seamless finish and is worth learning. This is a helpful tutorial on how to do mattress stitch with garter stitch on the side seam - you'll get to know your smiles and frowns. 🙂🙁
And this is a good tutorial on how to do mattress stitch along the sleeves, where it is all about the Vs.
If you're wondering how you get the T shape without any increasing or decreasing... you cast on the stitches for the sleeves.
(And actually, there is one place you do a knit 2 stitches together... at the back neck to make a buttonhole).
Less exciting updates - I'm still working on Caine (the yellow green slipover) and Coco Vest (the neon pink and grey tank top) but there's not much progress on either.
I am close to finishing the new eyelet shawl (free pattern) in Rico Summer Sprinkles (the variegated purple pile). One final push and it should be done very soon.
My next big push is to finish the scarfy wrap in Rico Melange Aran Wonderball.
This first appeared on the coffee table in September 2022 and then sat on the counter in the Pittenweem shop for a few months. It was much admired which really should give me the motivation to finish it but I get bored with rectangles. If it were a triangle it would be finished a lot quicker.
In an effort to get it done I am going to set up a schedule working out how long each row repeat takes me to knit and then set a timetable giving myself a target of X repeats a week. If I work out how much yarn each row repeat uses I could work out how much longer it'll take to use all of the ball and then I'd have an end in sight.
None of this is procrastination of course.😆
My other on going project is my mitred square blanket. This may be rectangularish but it is so much more manageable.
I started this as I was bored with the long rows of my Stephen West Melting Marl shawl. The small squares are achievable and very satisfying.
This my umpteenth try at a mitred square blanket so I'm doing it from the memories of all my failed attempts. If you'd like a pattern there is one at The Purl Soho which has been very successful for others.
For mine I am holding two strands of 4ply together and using 4.5mm needles with a cast on of 40 stitches. I am using stash yarn that I've acquired over the years and only using single or semi-solid shades. Nothing too variegated or patterned. I'm also only holding similar shades together. I hope to just use superwash merino or merino nylon blend to keep all the fibres the same.
After seeing someone else's blanket at the weekend it does look like I am picking up the stitches further in than I need to. However it does give me a stronger seam which I think I might need for the weight of the two strands of 4ply... not sure though.
And finally... a new project! The fuzzy confection on the coffee table is Rico Bubble. I'm knitting some squares that can be used as wash scrubbies... for bodies or pots!
I used a 4mm needle and knitted one square with one strand and another square with two strands. The two strand square is very squishy... in a plastically kinda way.😆
I just cast on 40 stitches and then decreased two stitches at the centre on every alternate row. Just like my mitred blanket squares.
I'll leave them in the shop if you fancy a squish (and I'll knit some more for the kitchen sink).
